With the high cost and scarcity of fabrics during the civil war, berthas were very popular as they could change the look of an outfit for little cost. This is a pattern for a reversible bertha with a self-fabric ruffle, although the bertha can be left plain or trimmed with braid or ribbons. It is designed to be worn over a bodice. Period photographs often show a collar worn over the bertha to complete the look. A basic one-size pattern.